inlay a continuous strip of mokume in a cast base

Photo 1. As in the first demonstration, begin by carving a wax model of the ring. Again, the band is a rounded square, but in this project a channel to accommodate the inlay encircles it. Make sure that the channel edges are square and that the channel is slightly deeper than the 18-gauge mokume used for the inlay. Sprue and cast as in the first project.

Photo 2. Prepare the mokume inlay by embedding it in a pitch bowl and punching the desired pattern into the back of the strip. Remember, the pattern will be much more complex than the punch marks. Also, be careful not to punch deeper than half the thickness of the metal.

Photo 3. After punching, clean all the pitch from the mokume strip and flux thoroughly. Flood the back of the piece with hard solder to completely fill all of the indentations made by punching. Pickle and clean.

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Photo 4. File both the casting and the inlay strip, so that they fit snugly together. Make sure the inlay strip is filed flat and smooth on the back side, and has all burrs removed from its inner corners. The top surface of the mokume should also be roughly filed flat, to facilitate its smooth bending.

Photo 5. Position the inlay strip in the channel and hold it securely with pliers. Then carefully bend the mokume around the inside of the channel. You may have to remove the strip from the ring to make minor adjustments and to assure a tight fit.

Photo 6. When you get back around to where you started, bend the inlay up as pictured, and cut away the excess. The reason for bending the end(s) like this is to expose more of the layers of the mokume at this point. These layers will be running in essentially the same direction and will help disguise the solder joint.

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Photo 7. A small gap should be left between the ends of the inlay strip which will be closed up in the next step. This distance is something that can only be learned by experience, but the width of a separating disc is a good place to start. Flux very lightly between the ring base and the inlay strip in preparation for the next step.

Photo 8. Position a top-quality hose clamp over the ring as shown. The edge of the clamp should come to about the center of the band. Tighten the clamp. This not only closes the gap where the ends meet, but forces the inlay down into greater contact with the ring base.

Photo 9. You must now bind the inlay in place with a length of heavy binding wire. Do not release the hose clamp until the wire is twisted tight. Then undo the hose clamp, and adjust the wire position and tightness. Check to make sure the gap is still closed and the inlay is properly seated all the way around the ring.

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Photo 10. Flux the ring heavily with paste flux. Begin soldering towards the middle of the inlay strip and gradually work your way towards the ends. Be sure to heat the casting as much, or a little more, than the inlay strip to assure that the solder is drawn into the seam and flows completely into the spaces between the base and inlay strip.

Photo 11. Remove the binding wire by cutting or filing. Do not attempt to pull the wire loose as it may be soldered in place. This can tear or separate layers in the laminate. After removing all the binding wire, soak in pickle to remove any flux.

Photo 12. File and sand the ring to its proper shape and smoothness. Look for gaps and pits in seams, and repair as in the first project. When you are filing, try to remove only the excess solder, not the mokume underneath. Plan your final course of sanding to remove the last of the indentations on the surface of the ring. This will maintain maximum inlay thickness.

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Photo 13. Polish, etch, and color with an ammonia and salt patina to finish off the ring.

Photo 14. The finished Cast Inlay Ring. Note the seam where the two ends of the mokume inlay strip join at the top center of the band. Sterling silver with copper and silver mokume.

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Table Of Contents

Project 2: Cast Inlay Ring

inlay a continuous strip of mokume in a cast base