Project 5: Twist Patterned Bracelet
Make a Beautiful Bangle Bracelet Using a Twisted Mokume Bar
Twist Patterned Bracelet. 18K gold and shakudo.
Photo 1. Begin with a billet piece that has a square cross-section, and gently hammer the sharp corners so they more closely match the beveled shape of a square-wire rolling-mill. Before going on to the next step, file or grind off any folds in the metal that may have developed at the corners during this process.
Photo 2. Carefully solder a thin layer of 18K hard solder (in this case 18K) on the ends and edges of the billet. Use a solder pick to spread the solder so that all of the layers in the billet are covered. This will greatly reduce the stress on the metal when rolling and subsequent chance of delamination.
Photo 3. Reduce the billet by rolling to a 6mm square rod. Make sure you anneal the rod each time you reduce its diameter by a millimeter or so; quench at a dull red heat in cold pickle. Saw off about a 6 1/2 inch section for the next step.
Photo 4. Clamp the ends of the rod in a vise, and apply a generous coat of paste flux. Hold the other end of the rod in vise-grips, and begin twisting while heating the metal. For gold and copper alloys, this is done at a dull red heat. You can control where and how much the rod twists by the way you apply heat with the torch. If you notice any delamination, stop twisting and gently re-flow the solder that already coats the sides of the rod. Quench in pickle once you have achieved the desired twist.
Photo 5. Grind or file-off the excess solder on the edges of the twisted rod. I like to use an abrasive separating disc for this. As you grind, angle the disc so its contour matches the concave shape of the flutes of the twisted wire. This allows you to remove the solder smoothly without removing an excessive amount of the patterned metal underneath. You can also use a round or half-round file for this purpose.
Photo 6. Now, roll the rod into a solid square wire, about 5 mm in diameter. Watch for any corners that may fold over during rolling and grind these away before rolling to the final dimension.
Photo 7. To expose the pattern, which will be on the outside of the bracelet, mark the centerline of the wire and carefully saw the wire in half lengthways. (If you wish to make a half-round bracelet, saw the wire on the diagonal instead of on the flat.) File and/or forge the pieces to an even thickness removing any obvious bumps left from sawing. Set one aside for later and continue in the next step with the other.
Photo 8. Gently roll this piece to a perfect rectangular (or half round) wire about 9 inches long. As you do this, check the backside of the wire and remove any excess solder that remains which could obscure the pattern on what will be the inside of the bracelet. Roll carefully and correct any warpage or irregular bending that may occur during rolling.
Photo 9. Use a plastic mallet and a raising stake or bracelet mandrel to form the bracelet to a circle. The ends should overlap each other by about 1 inch. This inch or so (depending on the size of the bracelet) is removed in the next step to make the bracelet the correct size. It also provides extra material to use for adjusting how the pattern will match up at the joint.
Photo 10. For a seamless-looking design, cut through the middle of two of the “stars” that make up this pattern, and solder the bracelet together at this point. I like to saw the ends off with a jeweler’s saw and then use a separating disk to cut the joint perfectly parallel and true. Adjust the ends so that they meet perfectly, using spring tension in the bracelet to hold the ends firmly together. Then flux well, and solder with hard solder.
Photo 11. Finish the joint by removing any excess solder, then carefully form the bracelet to a perfect circle. File and sand to a smooth finish, then acid etch to create a light texture on the bracelet.
Photo 12. The completed bracelet has been glass-bead blasted and patinated in a solution of warm household ammonia and table salt to bring out the rich color of the shakudo. Note the solder joint at the center top of the bracelet.
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